Detailed build guides: top 5 projects

Here are step-by-step guides for the five most popular projects our customers build. Each assumes a standard 275-gallon composite HDPE tote as the donor.

1. Rain barrel (single unit)

Donor tote: B-grade or X-grade 275-gal HDPE (non-food-grade is fine for non-potable rainwater)

Tools needed: Hole saw (6"), drill, adjustable wrench, PTFE tape, utility knife, sandpaper (120 grit)

Materials: Aluminum mesh screen (6" diameter), 2" bulkhead fitting, 2" x 3/4" GHT reducer, short section of 2" PVC pipe, PVC cement, zip ties

1. Position the tote on level ground where your downspout will feed it. If you need gravity pressure for a hose, elevate it on cinder blocks or a welded cage-scrap stand (12–24" height works well).
2. Cut a 6" hole in the top of the bottle using a hole saw. Sand the edges smooth. This is your inlet — position it directly below where the downspout will be redirected.
3. Install the aluminum mesh screen over the inlet hole. Secure with zip ties through small holes drilled around the rim. This keeps mosquitoes, leaves, and debris out.
4. Install a 2" bulkhead fitting approximately 2" below the top rim of the bottle. This is your overflow — when the barrel is full, water exits here instead of overflowing the top. Connect a short section of 2" PVC directed toward a garden bed or storm drain.
5. The original 2" ball valve at the bottom becomes your outlet. If the valve is worn, replace it ($18–$32 for a new one). Thread on a 2" x 3/4" GHT reducer so you can attach a standard garden hose.
6. Redirect your downspout to feed into the top inlet. A PVC downspout diverter ($15–$25 at any hardware store) works well and includes a first-flush bypass.
7. Optional: paint the bottle with exterior latex to match your house. Black paint absorbs heat and can promote algae — use a lighter color for rainwater storage.

Total cost (DIY): $60–$120 including donor tote and fittings

Time to build: 2–3 hours

2. Aquaponic sump tank

Donor tote: A-grade or B-grade 275-gal HDPE. Food-grade preferred if fish will be consumed.

Tools needed: Hole saw (various sizes), drill, jigsaw, adjustable wrench, silicone sealant (aquarium-safe)

Materials: Two 2" bulkhead fittings, one 1" bulkhead fitting, 2" PVC standpipe (12" length), PVC ball valve, EPDM gaskets, aquarium-safe silicone

1. Keep the tote full-height for maximum water volume. The cage provides structural support and prevents blowout.
2. Install a 2" bulkhead fitting on one side, approximately 8" from the bottom. This is the pump outlet that feeds water up to your grow beds. Seal with aquarium-safe silicone on both sides.
3. Install a second 2" bulkhead fitting on the opposite side, approximately 4" from the top. This is the return from your grow beds. The offset prevents short-circuiting (water going directly from return to pump).
4. Install a 1" bulkhead fitting near the top as an overflow / emergency drain. Connect a standpipe inside to set the maximum water level.
5. Optionally, partition the interior with a perforated HDPE sheet to create a gravel filter chamber on the pump side. This pre-filters solids before they reach the pump.
6. The original top opening (6") with its cap removed becomes the feeding port for fish. Install a mesh screen to prevent fish from jumping out.
7. The original bottom valve can serve as a drain for maintenance. Normally kept closed.

Total cost (DIY): $100–$180 including donor tote and fittings

Time to build: 4–6 hours

3. Hot-sauce fermenter

Donor tote: Food-grade only. Must have documented previous contents (syrups, juices, etc.).

Tools needed: Hole saw (1.5"), drill, wrench set

Materials: 1.5" bulkhead fitting, fermentation airlock (S-type), rubber stopper to fit airlock, food-grade silicone sealant, temperature probe (optional)

1. Clean the food-grade tote thoroughly with hot water and food-safe sanitizer. Rinse multiple times until no odor remains.
2. The 6" fill port becomes your loading port. Prepare your mash (peppers, salt, garlic, etc.) and load through the top.
3. Drill a 1.5" hole in the fill cap. Insert a rubber stopper fitted with an S-type fermentation airlock. The airlock allows CO₂ to escape while preventing oxygen and contaminants from entering.
4. Optionally, install a temperature probe through a small bulkhead fitting on the side. Fermentation temperature affects flavor — most hot sauce ferments best at 68–75°F.
5. The bottom 2" valve becomes your drain. When fermentation is complete (typically 2–6 weeks), drain the liquid through a strainer. The solids can be blended separately for a different sauce texture.
6. For large batches (100+ gallons), consider adding a recirculation loop: a small food-grade pump that pulls from the bottom valve and returns through a port near the top, keeping the mash agitated.

Total cost (DIY): $160–$250 including food-grade donor tote

Time to build: 2–3 hours (plus weeks of fermentation)

4. Livestock waterer (cattle)

Donor tote: B-grade or X-grade 330-gal HDPE (larger capacity reduces refill frequency)

Tools needed: Reciprocating saw, drill, wrench, level

Materials: Float valve (3/4" brass), 3/4" hose bib, shade lid (plywood or corrugated metal), anti-tip stakes

1. Cut the bottle at approximately 24" height using a reciprocating saw. Smooth all cut edges with a file or sandpaper — cattle are curious and will rub against edges.
2. Keep the cage around the lower section for structural support. Bend the top edge of the cage inward or cap with split PVC pipe to prevent injury.
3. Install a 3/4" float valve on one side, connected to your water supply line. The float valve automatically refills the trough as cattle drink, maintaining a constant water level.
4. Install a 3/4" hose bib on the opposite side, near the bottom, for draining and cleaning. A quick-disconnect camlock makes cleaning faster.
5. Build a shade lid from plywood or corrugated metal, hinged on one side. Shade reduces algae growth and keeps the water cooler in summer. Leave a 6–8" gap on the drinking side for cattle access.
6. Stake the cage corners to the ground with rebar or T-posts to prevent tipping. A full 330-gal cut-down weighs about 1,400 lb with water — cattle can still push it if determined.

Total cost (DIY): $85–$170 including donor tote and fittings

Time to build: 3–4 hours

5. Compost tumbler

Donor tote: X-grade HDPE. Condition doesn't matter much — this is a rough-use application.

Tools needed: Reciprocating saw, drill, angle grinder, welder (optional), wrench set

Materials: Steel pipe (1.5" OD, 5' length) for axle, two pillow-block bearings, hinges (2), barrel latch, 4x cage cross-member sections for the frame

1. Cut the HDPE bottle free from the cage. Cut the bottle in half lengthwise — you now have two half-barrel sections.
2. Hinge the two halves together along one long edge. This creates an openable barrel that you can load, close, and tumble. Add a barrel latch on the opposite side to keep it closed during rotation.
3. Drill ventilation holes (1/2" diameter, spaced 4" apart) across both halves. Composting needs airflow — without holes, the contents go anaerobic and smell terrible.
4. Build a frame from cage cross-member scraps: two A-frames, 36" tall, with pillow-block bearings at the top of each. Space the A-frames 42" apart.
5. Slide the steel-pipe axle through the barrel center and seat it in the pillow-block bearings. The barrel should spin freely with light force.
6. Add a hand crank or grab handles (short sections of pipe welded to the barrel brackets) so you can rotate the tumbler 3–5 revolutions every few days.
7. Position the tumbler over a collection tray (the other half of the cage with a plastic sheet) to catch compost tea drippings.

Total cost (DIY): $65–$140 including donor tote and hardware

Time to build: 4–6 hours